Attention! This design has no galvanic isolation from a high-voltage alternating current network. Strictly follow safety precautions. When repeating a design, you do everything at your own peril and risk. The author does not bear any responsibility for your actions.

The article discusses the design of an LED lamp powered by an alternating current network with a voltage of up to 240 V and a frequency of 50/60 Hz. This lamp has been serving me for more than two years and I want to share this design with you. The lamp has a very simple current limiting circuit, which makes it possible for beginning radio amateurs to repeat the design. It has low power and can be used as a night light or to illuminate a room where high brightness is not needed, but such factors as low energy consumption and long service life are important. You can hang it in the entrance or on the landing and not worry about turning off or high electricity consumption - its service life is practically limited by the service life of the LEDs used, since this lamp does not have a pulse converter, which often fail faster than the LEDs themselves, and the radio elements are here are selected in such a way that the rated voltages and operating currents of both capacitors with diodes and the LEDs themselves are not exceeded, even at the maximum permissible voltage and frequency in the supply network.

The lamp has the following characteristics:

The lamp uses three-crystal warm white LEDs of the smd5050 type:

When a rated current of 20 mA flows on one LED chip, the voltage drops by about 3.3 V. These are the main parameters for calculating the quenching capacitor for powering the lamp.

The crystals of all nine LEDs are connected in series with each other and thus the same current flows through each crystal. This ensures uniform luminescence and maximum service life of the LEDs and therefore the entire lamp. The LED connection diagram is shown in the figure:

After soldering, you get this LED matrix:

This is what it looks like from the front:

I present to you the schematic diagram of this LED lamp:

The lamp uses a full-wave rectifier using diodes D1-D4. Resistor R1 limits the current surge when the lamp is turned on. Capacitor C2 is a filter and smoothes out current ripples through the LED matrix. For this case, its capacity in microfarads can be approximately calculated using the formula:

where I is the current through the LED matrix in milliamps and U is the voltage drop across it in volts. You should not chase too large a capacitance of this capacitor, since the current-quenching capacitor plays the role of a current limiter, and the connected LED matrix is ​​a voltage stabilizer.

IN in this case you can use a capacitor with a capacity of 2.2-4.7 μF. A resistor R3 installed in parallel with it ensures that this capacitor is completely discharged after turning off the power. Resistor R2 plays the same role for current suppression capacitor C1. Now the main question is how to calculate the capacity of the quenching capacitor? There are many formulas and online calculators for this on the Internet, but they all underestimated the result and gave a lower capacity, which was confirmed in practice. When using formulas from various sites and after using online calculators, in most cases the resulting capacitance was 0.22 µF. When installing a capacitor with this capacity and measuring the current flowing through the LED matrix, a result of 12 mA was obtained at a mains voltage of 240 V and a frequency of 50 Hz:

Then I took a longer route and first calculated the required quenching resistance, and then derived the capacity of the quenching capacitor. For the initial data we have:

• Supply voltage: 220 V. Let's take the maximum possible - 240 V.
• I took the network frequency to 60 Hz. At a frequency of 50 Hz, less current will flow through the matrix and the lamp will shine less brightly, but there will be a reserve.
• The voltage drop across the LED matrix will be 27 * 3.3 = 89.1 V, since we have 27 LED crystals connected in series and each of them will drop approximately 3.3 V. Let’s round this value to 90.
• At a maximum frequency of 60 Hz and a network voltage of 240 V, the current flowing through the matrix should not exceed 20 mA.

The calculations use the effective values ​​of currents and voltages. According to Ohm's law, the damping resistance should be:

Where U c - mains voltage (V)

Um - voltage on the LED matrix (V)

I m - current through the matrix (A).

Since we use a capacitor as a damping resistance, then X c = R and according to the well-known formula for capacitance:

We calculate the required capacitance of the capacitor:

Where f - supply frequency (Hz)

Xc - required capacitance (Ohm)

Let me remind you that the value of the capacitor capacity obtained in this case is valid for a supply frequency of 60 Hz. For a frequency of 50 Hz, according to calculations, the value is 0.42 μF. To check the validity, I temporarily installed two parallel-connected capacitors of 0.22 μF each with a resulting total capacitance of 0.44 μF, and when measuring the current flowing through the LED matrix, a value of 21 mA was recorded:

But durability and versatility were important to me, and based on the calculation for a frequency of 60 Hz with the result of the required capacitance of 0.35 µF, I took a similar value with a capacitance of 0.33 µF. I also advise you to take a capacitor with a slightly smaller capacity than the calculated one, so as not to exceed the permissible current of the LEDs used.

Next, by substituting the formula for calculating resistance into the formula for determining capacitance and reducing the entire expression, I derived a universal formula into which, by substituting the initial values, you can calculate the required capacitance of the capacitor for any number of LEDs in the lamp and any supply voltage:

The final formula takes the following form:

Where C - capacity of the quenching capacitor (uF)

Id - permissible rated current of the LED used in the lamp (mA)

f - supply frequency (Hz)

U c - supply voltage (V)

n - number of LEDs used

U d - voltage drop across one LED (V)

Maybe someone will be too lazy to make these calculations, but using this formula you can determine the capacity for any LED lamp with any number of LEDs of any color connected in series. For example, you can make a lamp from 16 red LEDs by substituting the voltage drop corresponding to the red LEDs into the formula. The main thing is to adhere to reasonable limits, not to exceed the number of LEDs with a total voltage on the matrix up to the supply voltage and not to use too powerful LEDs. In this way, you can make a lamp with a power of up to 5-7 W. Otherwise, you may need a capacitor that is too large and may cause severe current ripple.

Let's go back to my lamp and the photo below shows the radio elements that I used:

I did not have a capacitor with a capacity of 0.33 µF and I placed two capacitors with a capacity of 0.22 and 0.1 µF connected in parallel. With such a capacity, the current flowing through the matrix will be slightly less than the calculated one. In my case, the filter capacitor is for a voltage of 250 V, but I strongly recommend using a capacitor for a voltage of 400 V or more. Although the voltage drop on my LED matrix does not exceed 90 V, if at least one of the LEDs breaks or burns out, the voltage on the filter capacitor will reach the amplitude value, which is more than 330 V at an effective supply voltage of 240 V. (U a = 1.4U)

As a case, I used part of a compact energy-saving fluorescent lamp taking out the electronic filling from it:

I mounted the board mounted and it easily fit into the specified case:

I glued the LED matrix with double tape to a round piece of getinax, which I screwed to the body with two screws and nuts:

I also made a small reflector, cutting it out of a tin can:

I carried out real measurements at a supply voltage of 240 V and a frequency of 50 Hz:

The direct current through the LED matrix took the value of 16 mA, which does not exceed the rated current of the LEDs used:

I also developed a printed circuit board for radio elements in the Sprint-Layout program. All parts fit on an area of ​​30x30 mm. You can see the appearance of this printed circuit board in the figures:

I have provided this PCB in PDF, Gerber and Sprint-Layout formats. You can freely download these files. Although the diagram shows KD105 diodes, since they are currently rare, PCB wired for 1N4007 diodes. You can also use other medium-power rectifier diodes for a voltage of 600 V and a current 1.5-2 times greater than the current consumption of the LED matrix. I will give a recommendation regarding the assembly of this matrix. I temporarily glued all the LEDs with the front side to masking tape and soldered all the leads according to the diagram, after which I glued the finished matrix on the side of the terminals with double-sided tape and removed the paper masking tape from the front side. If you have the opportunity, I recommend placing the LEDs at a greater distance from each other, as they will generate heat and, if they are close together, can overheat and quickly degrade.

Personally, I have been using this lamp for seven hours a day for three years now and have not had any problems so far. I also attach an Excel table with the calculation formula to the article. You just need to substitute the original values ​​and as a result you will get the required capacity of the quenching capacitor. Bright and long-lasting light bulbs to everyone. Leave reviews and share the article, as there are many incorrect formulas and calculators on the Internet that give incorrect results. Everything here has been tested by experience and confirmed by time and real measurements.

List of radioelements

Designation	Type	Denomination	Quantity	Note	Shop	My notepad
	Capacitors
C1	Capacitor	0.33 µF 400 V	1			To notepad
C2	Electrolytic capacitor	3.3 µF 400 V	1			To notepad
	Resistors
R1	Resistor

Thanks to their many positive qualities, reliability, and practicality, LED lamps conquered the market almost from the first moments of their appearance. Lamps with LED light sources have a long service life, do not heat up during operation, consume a minimum amount of energy with a high dissipated power of the emitted luminous flux. The peculiarity of the operation of LEDs is related to the manufacturing technology of the p-n junction and the choice of crystal. Modern technologies make it possible to produce very bright LEDs with a luminous flux of 4000 K, which is much more than even economical fluorescent lamps can emit.

Lamps are available with a yellow or white glow, so customers can choose the most suitable light sources for their room. Yellow ones, having a glow temperature of 6000 K, create a warm glow, and white ones with 4000 K create a cold glow.

LED lamps are more cost effective than incandescent or "energy saving" lamps, but due to manufacturing features Because of their design complexity, they are more expensive. Although, comparing the design and manufacturability of fluorescent light sources, we can conclude that the production of LEDs is simpler.

Considering the high price of LED lamps, many want to make it themselves, especially since all the necessary parts can be purchased on the radio market. What can't you say about the mercury lamp, in which not only the power board is complex, but also the gas flask is an inaccessible element. Therefore, if you want to make high-quality LED lamps for a greenhouse with your own hands, then this can be done quite simply.

Gallery: DIY LED lamps (25 photos)

Scope of application

The advantage of LED light sources is their versatility. Manufacturers produce LED matrices or LEDs themselves that vary in emission power, shape and number of elements. Therefore it is possible design lamps at your discretion, either a standard base from a broken lamp or a specialized one in accordance with the requirements for connecting to a driver or control board.

The advantage of LED light sources is that the brightness of the light can be controlled by changing the voltage at its input. Thus, you can get a shade from barely noticeable to overly bright. This property makes it possible to create many useful things:

Country houses on the site subject to registration in 2019

LEDs are used in many areas due to their practical qualities. They are actively used in industry, everyday life, medicine, and preschool institutions.

DIY making

There are many different forms of lamps and lighting systems that can be made with your own hands in a housing, or maybe ready-made tape used, which is also very convenient. For example, when creating backlighting for a keyboard or shelves in a closet.

What is required to make a LED lamp? You don’t have to think long, because LED light sources are universal. They can be connected to AC or DC voltage of any rating. It is enough to make quality driver or control unit and correctly position the LEDs on the plate.

Fastening and installation

Before you start making an LED lamp, you should think about its purpose. If it is installed in a standard cartridge, then this will require a base E27, E14, G9. You can take it from any old light bulb, for example, a fluorescent one. The same principle is followed when lighting a greenhouse with LED lamps.

Depending on the purpose, LED lamps can also be different. Some are intended for general lighting, for use as night lights or as a phytolamp for growing plants. In the first case for the manufacture of lamps bright LEDs with a cold or warm glow are used, which is most preferable. From the point of view of the effect on human vision, it is better to buy lamps with a yellow glow, the same applies to the choice of LEDs themselves.

And when it comes to a night light or dim lighting, then for its production you should choose colors other than white or use low-brightness lighting modes. If it is necessary make a phytolamp for growing plants, then it is better to choose red and blue colors of the light flux. It is the spectrum of these shades that has a beneficial effect on growth and ensures intensive development of plants.

How to make a phytolamp

LED lamps are widely used, especially often used for growing plants in greenhouses. For this, the so-called phytolamp is used. Its peculiarity lies in the spectrum of light. Plants grow well in red, blue and yellow shades of light. For example, red promotes better photosynthesis, blue stimulates the intensity of growth at the cellular level, and yellow enriches the plant with other important components. Therefore, DIY LED lamps will be an ideal option, especially when it comes to growing plants.

How many square meters in 1 are of land

But in order for the plant to really grow intensively in the greenhouse, strengthen and form faster, it is necessary to maintain the proportion of the amount of red light to blue in a ratio of 1:3. And add a little yellow. A plant in such conditions much stronger, more resilient and healthier. Therefore, if you decide to grow seedlings, you can make a phytolamp with your own hands. To do this, you will need to buy a strip or combine red and blue LED colors in greenhouse lights. Such lighting in a greenhouse will not require significant material waste, because the price of materials is lower than that of a finished phytolamp.

Thanks to the ability to place lighting sources in any convenient place, you can save on electricity. For example, the tape can be stretched over the plants themselves, eliminating unnecessary waste on lighting the space of the entire greenhouse.

To make a lamp, you do not need to buy special LEDs; for greenhouses, market ones or those ordered from an online store are quite suitable. On sale Various models available, it is important that the brightness is sufficient and the color matches the effective spectrum.

Basic design

When it comes to making your own LED lighting for greenhouses or for other specific needs, the type of design is selected based on the features of its fastening. If to be installed into a standard pendant lamp with an E27 socket, then, accordingly, it is better to use a standard base.

The light bulb body can be made from any transparent material. But you will get the best effect from direct glow without using various filters. But flasks and diffusers That's exactly what they are. When it comes to making a lamp for household needs, beauty can be put on the back burner.

Selecting a Power Source

LED light sources are universal. They can be connected to any supply voltage. But just to do this you will need to make the necessary driver or simple power supply, the design of the device should be selected based on the location of the lighting arrangement. There is almost always high humidity in the greenhouse, so the power supply must be sealed.

In practice, there are a lot of diagrams for connecting LEDs when making greenhouse lighting with your own hands, powered both from a 12V DC network and a 220V AC network. But the formats of the supply circuits do not end there, because any voltage can be used using standard calculations.

How to calculate the power supply

To select the right components and select the correct modes of operation of the lighting source for a greenhouse or other place, you need to know the parameters of the LEDs. And these include:

• Supply voltage when connected directly. Almost all LEDs, if this is not an assembly, have a standard supply voltage of 3 V.
• Current consumption when connected directly. A standard p-n junction for normal glow consumes 20-30 mA. But there are also LEDs with increased current up to 100 mA or more, called super-bright. Therefore, it is important to check the parameters in the reference literature, since it is available without restrictions on many portals.
• Peak current and voltage. These values ​​are indirect, but are important when calculating a high-quality and reliable source.

Let's consider an example of calculating a power supply for a lamp with 20 LEDs connected in series-parallel. The first step is to make a reservation. If want to make a truly reliable light source, you will need to add to the circuit:

• Varistor with a pulse voltage of 278 V, provided that a 220 V circuit is connected.
• An electronic fuse will protect the device from excess current in the event of one of the LEDs burning out during a short circuit.
• Stabilizer. To increase the reliability of the lamp, a stabilizer of 3V or more should be included in its circuit, depending on the total voltage of the series connection of the LEDs. There are 10 of them in the lamp in question, so the stabilization voltage should be 30 V.

Practical implementation

In practice, the driver circuit is significantly simplified, eliminating all kinds of protections and fuses. Therefore, it is difficult to call ready-made lamps high-quality. But this is not always the case. Expensive LED lamps are equipped with a truly reliable source with all protections.

Devices with coupling capacitor

The most common and practical power supply circuit for LEDs is precisely capacitive source. It takes up little space and does not require many professional skills to manufacture.

The figure previously depicted the classic diagram of a traditional feeder. It has a decoupling capacitor, a discharge resistor, a rectifier and a zener diode. It is not recommended to connect the circuit without load, because amplitude value the voltage will be high and if one of the LED circuits breaks, the zener diode will fail.

Driver for PWM controller

Circuits with a driver on a microcontroller and a transformer are more durable and of higher quality. His scheme shown in the picture higher. This also does not require many details, and the calculation procedure can be found in the description. Everything is implemented quite simply.

Let's look at how to make light diode lamp with your own hands. The main materials and elements for self-manufacturing an LED lamp are presented:

• output type LEDs;
• power source in the form of a current driver without a housing with galvanic isolation;
• aluminum, heat-dissipating radiator in the form of a U-shaped building profile;
• thermally conductive double-sided tape.

It is advisable to use a metal structure as a housing, since semiconductors, represented by diodes, can heat up significantly under the influence of electric current.

It is best to use a 12W LED diode driver with an input voltage level of 100-240V and an output voltage of 18-46V.

The main stages of self-production LED lamp with your own hands the following:

• insert a resistor and a pair of capacitors into the base;
• solder a small rectifier;
• treat the surface;
• create an insulating layer using a polymer tube;
• inspect the LED contacts and check their functionality;
• assemble the structure by soldering the boards onto the capacitor;
• perform final insulation with adhesive;
• check the diode connection;
• solder the capacitor and resistor.

At the final stage, all contacts are insulated with adhesive. A lighting structure that is completely ready for use can be left in its original state or covered with a lampshade, which will significantly soften the glow of the lamp.

To independently create a powerful diode lamp based on several dozen LEDs at once, you will need to complete the activities presented:

• determining the number of diodes;
• determination of rated power;
• connecting LEDs to the negative contact of the diode bridge;
• soldering all diodes “plus to minus”;
• combining all groups with wires;
• adding a diode bridge.

The positive terminal is connected to the positive wire on the first group, and the negative terminal is connected to the common wire on the last diode of the group. Then the base part is prepared, and the wires are soldered to the AC voltage inputs of the diode bridge.

1. LEDs: purpose, device and principle of operation
2. Assembly of luminaires in a housing with LED strips
3. Lamps made from energy-saving lamps
4. Video

In modern conditions, the cost of electricity is constantly increasing, so LED light sources are becoming increasingly popular among consumers. They perfectly replace natural light and save money. However, a significant disadvantage of these lighting devices is their high cost.

The popularity of LED lamps is so high that craftsmen have not ignored it. On the Internet today you can find a huge number of diagrams with which you can answer the question of how to make an LED lamp with your own hands? And as practice has shown, the simplest option of all is to use an LED strip in the lamp.

Of course, the tape is most often used for decorative lighting, but if you correctly calculate the brightness of the lighting and the number of LEDs, then you can make a good lamp for zone lighting from it. For example, for the desktop. Therefore, we will consider one of the options, which seemed not very difficult to us.

DIY LED lamp circuit

To do this you will need a faulty fluorescent light fixture. As practice shows, most often the electronic ballast, or in short, the electronic ballast, fails. So, constantly changing electronic ballasts for a new one won’t save you money. Therefore, from this light source you can easily make a lamp on an LED strip.

Four types of LED devices

LEDs are semiconductor electronic devices that emit light as a result of the passage of electric current. Appearing 15 years ago, home appliances literally immediately conquered the light source market. Today you can buy LED lamps of any shape, size, power and color. But you can also make them yourself, which even an inexperienced radio amateur can do.

Before we start making an LED lamp with our own hands, let’s consider its design and operating principle. A diode is a semiconductor device that passes current through a p-n junction in only one direction. As a result of the release of energy during the recombination of electrons and holes, photons are emitted with the release of light and thermal energy.

The simplest heatsink is an aluminum substrate on which the LEDs are located, however, such heat removal will not be enough if the device is assembled on 3 or more semiconductors. Special metal radiators are installed in such lamps. In indoor appliances it is replaced by the body of the light bulb.

An economical version of an LED lamp can be made with your own hands using a burnt-out lamp. To do this, it is necessary to carefully disassemble the burnt-out lamp without damaging the base and clean and degrease it. In the base we place a protective resistor of 100 Ohms and two capacitors of 220 nF each, the operating voltage of which is 400 V, a capacitor of 10 μF, which is responsible for the absence of flicker , rectifier (diode bridge) and LEDs in a ratio of 1 (red) to 3 (white). We connect the components of the circuit by soldering and insulate them with mounting adhesive, filling the entire space of the base between the parts of the circuit and securing them.

In addition to a regular lamp, a halogen lamp is used to create an LED lamp with your own hands.

Halogen lamp

To assemble a lamp using a halogen lamp, the following components are required:

• assembly diagram, which you can draw up yourself or take from the Internet;
• LEDs;
• non-working halogen lamp;
• quick-drying glue;
• copper wire;
• soldering iron and solder;
• aluminum substrate 0.2 mm thick, which will replace the radiator;
• resistors;
• hole punch

Let's look at the step-by-step creation of a 220 V light source from an LED strip. To decide to use an innovation in the kitchen, it is enough to remember that LED lamps assembled by yourself are significantly more profitable than their fluorescent counterparts. They live 10 times longer and consume 2–3 times less energy at the same lighting level.

1. For construction you will need two burnt out fluorescent lamps half a meter long and 13 watts in power. There is no point in buying new ones; it is better to find old ones that are not working, but not broken and without cracks.
2. Next, we go to the store and buy an LED strip. There is a large selection, so please purchase responsibly. It is advisable to buy tapes with pure white or natural light; it does not change the shades of surrounding objects. In such strips, LEDs are collected in groups of 3 pieces. The voltage of one group is 12 volts, and the power is 14 watts per meter strip.
   
3. Then you need to disassemble the fluorescent lamps into their component parts. Carefully! Do not damage the wires or break the tube, otherwise toxic fumes will escape and you will have to clean up, like after a broken mercury thermometer. Do not throw away the removed entrails; they will be useful in the future.
   Below is a diagram of the LED strip we purchased. In it, LEDs are connected in parallel, 3 pieces in a group. Please note that this scheme does not suit us.
   Below is a diagram of the LED strip we purchased. In it, LEDs are connected in parallel, 3 pieces in a group. Please note that this scheme does not suit us.
4. Therefore, you need to cut the tape into sections of 3 diodes each and get expensive and useless converters. It is more convenient to cut the tape with wire cutters or large and strong scissors. After soldering the wires, you should get the diagram below.
   The result should be 66 LEDs or 22 groups of 3 LEDs each, connected in parallel along the entire length. The calculations are simple. Since we need to convert alternating current into direct current, the standard voltage of 220 Volts in the electrical network needs to be increased to 250. The need to “pump up” the voltage is associated with the rectification process.
5. To find out the number of LED sections, you need to divide 250 Volts by 12 Volts (voltage for one group of 3 pieces). As a result, we get 20.8(3), rounding up, we get 21 groups. Here it is advisable to add another group, since the total number of LEDs will have to be divided into 2 lamps, and for this you need an even number. In addition, by adding another section, we will make the overall scheme safer.
   
6. We will need a rectifier DC, which is why you should not throw away the removed insides of a fluorescent lamp. To do this, we take out the converter and, using wire cutters, remove the capacitor from the common circuit. This is quite simple to do, since it is located separately from the diodes, you just need to break off the board.
   The diagram shows what the end result should be, in more detail.
   The diagram shows what the end result should be, in more detail.
7. Next, using soldering and superglue, you need to assemble the entire structure. Don't even try to fit all 22 sections into one lamp. It was said above that you need to specifically find 2 half-meter lamps, since it is simply impossible to place all the LEDs in one. You also don't need to rely on the self-adhesive layer on the back of the tape. It will not last long, so the LEDs need to be secured with superglue or liquid nails.
   

Let's summarize and find out the advantages of the assembled product:

• The amount of light from the resulting LED lamps is 1.5 times greater than that of their fluorescent counterparts.
• The power consumption is much less than that of fluorescent lamps.
• The assembled light source will last 5–10 times longer.
• Finally, last advantage- direction of light. It does not dissipate and is directed straight down, so it is used near the desktop or in the kitchen.

Of course, the emitted light is not very bright, but the main advantage is the low power consumption of the lamp. Even if you turn it on and never turn it off, it will consume only 4 kW of energy in a year. At the same time, the cost of electricity consumed per year is comparable to the cost of a ticket on a city bus. Therefore, such light sources are especially effective to use where constant illumination is required (corridor, street, utility room).

Let's look at another way to create an LED lamp. A chandelier or table lamp needs a standard E14 or E27 base. Accordingly, the circuit and diodes used will differ. Compact fluorescent lamps are now widely used. We will need one burnt-out cartridge, and we will also change the general list of materials for assembly.

You will need:

• burnt out E27 base;
• driver RLD2-1;
• NK6 LEDs;
• a piece of cardboard, but better - plastic;
• superglue;
• electrical wiring;
• as well as scissors, soldering iron, pliers and other tools.

Let's start creating a homemade lamp:

1. First you need to disassemble the old lamp. In compact fluorescent lamps, the base is attached to the plate with tubes using latches. If you find places with latches and pry them off with a screwdriver, the base will come off quite easily. When disassembling you need to be careful not to damage the tubes. If they burst, the toxic substances contained in them will come out. When opening, make sure that the electrical wiring leading to the base remains intact. Also, do not throw away the contents of the base.
   
2. From the upper part with gas-discharge tubes you need to make a plate to which the LEDs will be attached. To do this, disconnect the light bulb tubes. The remaining plate has 6 holes. In order for the LEDs to be securely fastened in it, you need to make a plastic or cardboard “bottom”, which will also insulate the LEDs. We will use NK6 LEDs (photo below). Their advantage is that they are multi-crystal (6 crystals per diode) with parallel connection. Because of this, the light source is quite bright with minimal power.
   We will use NK6 LEDs (photo below). Their advantage is that they are multi-crystal (6 crystals per diode) with parallel connection. Because of this, the light source is quite bright with minimal power.
3. We make 2 holes in the lid for each LED. Punch the holes carefully and evenly so that their location and intended pattern correspond to each other. If you use a piece of plastic as the “bottom,” the LEDs will be attached quite firmly, but if you use a piece of cardboard, you will need to glue the base with the LEDs using superglue or liquid nails.
4. Since the light bulb will be used in a 220-volt network, you will need an RLD2-1 driver. You can connect 3 one-watt diodes to it. We have 6 LEDs with a power of 0.5 watts each. Therefore, the connection circuit will consist of two parts connected in series, each part containing 3 LEDs connected in parallel. Above is a diagram, but in reality the whole structure looks like this:
   Above is a diagram, but in reality the whole structure looks like this:
5. Before assembly, you need to isolate the driver and the board from each other using a piece of cardboard or plastic. This will prevent short circuits in the future. There is no need to worry about overheating; the lamp practically does not heat up.
   
6. All that remains is to assemble the structure and test it in action.
   

The luminous flux of the assembled lamp is 100–120 lumens. Pure white light makes the bulb appear significantly lighter. This is enough to illuminate a small room (corridor, utility room). The main advantage of the LED light source is low energy consumption and power - only 3 Watts. Which is 10 times less than incandescent lamps and 2–3 times less than fluorescent lamps. It operates from a conventional cartridge with 220 volt power.

Lamp assembly

The circuit of the simplest lamp operating from a 220 V network consists of two 12 kOhm resistors and two LEDs installed in parallel. The circuit is relevant for an even number of LED devices. For an odd number, the circuit must contain a driver that stabilizes the output current and voltage.

It is best to purchase a ready-made driver that is matched to the LED device. In addition, you can also make the driver yourself using a rectifier bridge, capacitors and ordinary diodes, which in the assembly convert the mains voltage into a voltage of a given frequency and value. Resistors in such a circuit act as a current limiter.

As can be seen from the above, an LED device can be assembled by anyone who has held a soldering iron at least once in their life and knows how to use the Internet, where many examples of standard and non-standard circuits and solutions for assembling an LED lamp are presented.

You can make the simplest lamp yourself using an LED strip, which you just need to attach to any flat surface using double-sided tape. For greater reliability and expansion functionality The LED strip of the device can be conveniently placed in the housing of a non-working fluorescent lamp, the length of which does not exceed 30 cm.

The following types of strips are suitable for the manufacture of LED lamps:

• SMD 3528 (60 (4.8 W); 120 (7.2 W); 240 (16 W) LEDs per linear meter);
• SMD 5050 (30 (7.2 W); 60 (14 W); 120 (25 W).

Density and arrangement of LEDs on SMD 3528 and SMD 5050 strips

The optimal choice would be the SMD 5050 LED strip, the parameters of which correspond to the following values:

• radiation angle – 120 degrees;
• supply voltage – 12 V;
• current – ​​1.2 A/m

The LED strip must be glued to the inside of the case using tape. To work, you can buy a power supply or assemble it yourself using the diagram below. The advantage of a self-assembled power supply is that it is possible to hide it in the lamp housing.

A DIY lamp based on an LED strip is no different in its parameters from the purchased version. Moreover, its cost is significantly lower than the cost of the finished product.

• We clean the halogen lamp from all components and putties.
• We take it out of the reflector.
• We prepare a reflector disk on which the LEDs will be located. We glue the disk onto an aluminum backing (a disk template can be found on the Internet) and make holes in it.
• According to the diagram, we place the LEDs on the disk with their legs up, taking into account their polarity. We roll a little glue between them, avoiding getting it on the contacts.
• We solder the LED contacts so that the chain begins with positive polarity (“”) and ends with negative (“-”).
• The positive contacts are connected to each other by soldering.
• We connect resistors to the negative contacts by soldering and connect their contacts to each other with solder, obtaining negatively charged resistors.
• We also connect the contacts of the resistors to each other and solder copper wires to them. To avoid short circuits, fill the space between the contacts and wires with glue.
• We glue the disk and the halogen reflector together.
• After the glue has polymerized, you can connect a 12 V power source.

There are a lot of ways to create a lamp with your own hands. The most common methods are using an old base from a burnt-out fluorescent lamp. Everyone will have such a resource in their home, so there will be no problems finding it. In addition to this you will need:

1. Base from a burnt-out product.
2. Directly ICE. They are sold in the form of LED strips or individual NK6 LEDs. Each element has a current of approximately 100–120 mA and a voltage of approximately 3–3.3 Volts.
3. You will need a diode bridge or 1N4007 rectifier diodes.
4. You need a fuse, which can be found in the base of a blown lamp.
5. Capacitor. Its capacity, voltage and other parameters are selected depending on electrical diagram for the assembly and the number of LEDs in it.
6. In most cases, you will need a frame on which the LEDs will be mounted. The frame can be made of plastic or similar material. The main requirement is that it must not be metallic, conductive, and must be heat-resistant.
7. To securely attach the LEDs to the frame, you will need superglue or liquid nails (the latter is preferable).

One or two elements from the above list may not be useful in some schemes; in other cases, on the contrary, new chain links (drivers, electrolytes) may be added. Therefore, the list of necessary materials must be compiled individually in each specific case.

If an odd number of LEDs is used, a driver must be included in the circuit to stabilize the output current and voltage. It is recommended to purchase a ready-made product adapted for a specific lamp. Self-assembly of the driver is carried out using a rectifier bridge, capacitors and ordinary diodes used to convert the mains voltage into a voltage with the desired value and frequency. The role of resistors in this circuit is to limit the current.

One of the simplest lamp options is an LED strip, which is attached to any flat surface with double-sided tape. The basis can be non-working lamps, provided that their dimensions coincide with the dimensions of the strip. When all the preparatory work is completed, you can begin making LED lamps with your own hands.

After fastening, the entire working part is connected to the power supply, which can be purchased ready-made or assembled with your own hands. In the latter case, the assembled unit can be placed inside the lamp housing, while the finished power supply is installed only next to the lamp. In both cases, the assembled lighting device will be neat and economical, providing normal illumination of the working surface. During assembly, special attention should be paid to the quality of insulation of all conductive parts.

• Firstly, it should be noted that an LED strip is, in fact, a flexible plateau on which LEDs and resistors (current-limiting) are installed.
• Secondly, pay attention to its technical characteristics, especially regarding the brightness of the diodes. Optimal option: 780-900 Lm/m.
• Thirdly, adjusting the tape itself to the size of the lamp is not a problem. It is trimmed according to the areas marked on it. You can't cut in other places.
• Fourthly, there is an adhesive layer on the back of the tape, so it will be easy to attach it to the surface of the lamp.

Place for cutting LED strip

First of all, it is necessary to remove the electronic ballast plate from the lamp. Then pieces of LED strip are glued onto it. In this case, the number of glued rows can be different, for example, six rows of three diodes each with a transverse installation. Installation variations can be different, the main thing is to accurately maintain the power of the required glow.

power unit

It is necessary to dwell on this element of the new lamp in more detail, because the LED strip on the power supply of a fluorescent lamp will not work. The thing is that the LED strip requires stabilization of voltage and current. If this is not done, the diodes will overheat and eventually simply burn out.

In our case, the best option is a power supply without a transformer, but with a ballast capacitor. Here is a diagram of the power supply from below.

Power supply with ballast capacitor

In this circuit, C1 is the same ballast capacitor that suppresses the mains voltage of 220 volts. After it, the current is supplied to the diode rectifier VD1-VD4. After this, a constant voltage is applied to filter C2. To ensure that the capacitors discharge quickly, two resistors R2 for C1, R3 for C2 are installed in the circuit.

The most important element in this electrical network is capacitor C1. Here it is important to accurately select it according to the required capacity parameters. You should not use complex formulas for this. Just find a calculator on the Internet that will help you accurately calculate. True, for this you will need one introductory information: the current strength on a piece of LED strip. This is usually indicated in the product passport.

But keep in mind that the accompanying documents indicate the maximum current parameter, so you should not take it as the main one. For example, a current of 150 mA will be normal for a new lamp 30 cm long. In this case, the LEDs will not heat up, and the brightness of the glow will be sufficient.

Power supply for LED strip

Try entering our data into the calculator, you will get an indicator of the capacitance of the capacitor - 2.08 μF. We round it up to the standard - 2.2 microfarads, which will withstand voltages up to 400 volts.

Attention! The power supply assembled according to this scheme is transformerless. Therefore, the entire circuit must be installed in a special housing that does not allow electric current to pass through, for example, a plastic one. Plus, it is recommended to strictly adhere to all safety regulations. Do not come into contact with live parts of the unit while the lamp is operating.

There is no need to throw away electronic ballasts that constantly fail. It needs to be checked for serviceability. It is important here that the diode bridge is intact; all other parts can be removed.

• Incandescent lamp sockets.
• Housings from burnt-out energy-saving or halogen lamps.
• Handmade devices.

LED lamp from a burnt out lamp

The old burnt-out device is carefully disassembled so that the base remains intact. After this, it needs to be cleaned and degreased. The circuit, located inside the base, consists of two 100 ohm protective resistors, two 220 nF capacitors with an operating voltage of 400 volts, and one 10 μF capacitor that neutralizes flicker.

Advantages of a homemade lamp

You can find many types of lamps in the store. Each type has its own disadvantages and advantages. Incandescent lamps are gradually losing their position due to high energy consumption, low light output, despite a high color rendering index. Compared to them, fluorescent light sources are a real miracle.

But fluorescent lamps also have disadvantages. They quickly fail due to frequent switching on and off; moreover, the vapors contained in the tubes are poisonous, and the design itself requires special disposal. Compared to them, the light-emitting diode (LED) lamp is the second revolution in lighting. They are even more economical, do not require special disposal and last 5–10 times longer.

LED lamps have one significant drawback - they are the most expensive. To reduce this minus to a minimum or turn it into a plus, you will need to build it from an LED strip with your own hands. At the same time, the cost of the light source becomes lower than that of luminescent analogues.

Homemade led lamp has a number of advantages:

• The service life of the device, when properly assembled, is a record 100,000 hours;
• in terms of watt/lumen efficiency they are also superior to all analogues;
• the cost of a homemade lamp is no higher than that of a fluorescent lamp.

Of course, there is one drawback - the lack of guarantees for the product, which must be compensated by strict adherence to the instructions and the skill of the electrician.

Specialized stores offer a large selection of LED devices. However, sometimes it is impossible to find a device in the assortment that meets the necessary parameters. In addition, LED devices are traditionally high in cost.

Meanwhile, it is quite possible to save money and get the perfect lamp by assembling it yourself. This is not difficult to do and basic technical knowledge and practical skills will be enough.

A DIY LED device has a number of significant advantages over its store-bought counterpart. They are economical: with careful assembly and use of high-quality parts, the service life reaches 100 thousand hours.

Such devices show high degree energy efficiency, which is determined by the ratio of power consumption and the brightness of the generated light. Finally, their cost is an order of magnitude lower than their factory counterparts.

Making an LED lamp from a halogen lamp

According to the diagram, the LEDs are located on the disk with their legs up, taking into account their polarity. A small amount of glue is applied between them so that it does not get on the contacts. During soldering, the entire chain must start with a plus and end with a minus. Next, the positive contacts are connected using soldering. The negative contacts are connected to resistors and to each other. As a result, resistors with a negative charge are obtained.

The contacts of the resistors are connected to each other, after which copper wires are soldered to them. The gap between the wires and contacts is filled with glue to avoid short circuits. Then the disk and reflector are glued together. After the glue has dried, you can connect to a 12 volt power source.

The main issues that have to be resolved in the manufacture of LED lamps are the conversion of alternating electric current to pulsating and its equalization to constant. In addition, it is necessary to limit the power flow to 12 volts, which is necessary to power the diode.

When thinking through the device, you should also solve a number of design problems, namely:

• how to arrange the circuit and LEDs;
• how to isolate the system;
• how to ensure heat exchange in the device.

Before assembly, it is advisable to think through all these problems, taking into account the requirements for a homemade light source.

In addition to the body, other elements will be required to create the lamp. These are, first of all, LEDs, which can be purchased in the form of LED strips or individual elements NK6. The current strength of each part is 100-120 mA; voltage 3-3.3 V.

You also need 1N4007 rectifier diodes or a diode bridge, as well as fuses, which can be found in the base of an old device.

You will also need a capacitor, the capacitance and voltage of which must correspond to the electrical circuit used and the number of LED elements used in it.

If you are not using a ready-made board, you need to think about the frame to which the LEDs are attached. For its manufacture, a heat-resistant material that is not metal and non-conducting electric current is suitable.

As a rule, such a part is made of durable plastic or thick cardboard. To attach the LED elements to the frame you will need liquid nails or superglue.

Energy saving lamp

After an energy-saving lamp has served its life and burned out, hand-made craftsmen recommend not throwing it away, but using the device to create an LED lighting device. This can be done if the lamp has a working electronic ballast (EB) and a whole housing with a base, which will become the basis of the new product.

To complete the package, you need to purchase 5 mm LEDs and 4 ultra-fast diodes of the UF4007 type. The essence of creating an LED lamp based on an energy-saving one is to install a rectifier bridge at the output of the EB, which will allow you to obtain a constant voltage of 100 V at a current of 130 mA.

To reduce the frequency of the alternating voltage at the EB output, we will assemble a rectifier bridge from UF4007 diodes, to the output of which we solder a 0.1 µF capacitor operating at a voltage of 400 V. We install the diode bridge in place of capacitor C3 (see typical diagram of an EB lamp) connecting the filaments incandescent lamp, which we then close together.

Separately, we assemble a series chain of 30 LED devices, the current consumption of which is 20 mA, and check its operation. At a constant voltage of 100 V and a current of 130 mA, you can assemble 5 chains of LED diodes of 30 pieces each and get a lamp whose power is 15 W.

As we see from what is described above, you can make an LED lamp yourself, not only by soldering the circuit, but also using various devices - LED strip and lamps different types.

Energy-saving lamps that have expired should not be thrown away; they can be used as a basis for LED lamps. The lamp body together with the base must be intact, and the electronic ballast must be in full working order, since they will be the basis of the new lamp. In addition, you will need 5 mm LEDs and 4 ultra-fast diodes.

Output energy saving lamp a rectifier bridge is installed, providing a constant voltage of 100 volts at a current of 130 mA. A sequential chain of 30 LEDs is assembled separately; the number of such chains can reach up to five.

LED luminous flux online calc. .

LED lamp circuits

The circuit includes four diodes that are connected in different directions. Thanks to this, the bridge acquires the ability to transform the mains current of 220 V into a pulsating one.

This happens as follows: when sinusoidal half-waves pass through two diodes, they change, which causes a loss of polarity.

During assembly, a capacitor is connected to the positive output in front of the bridge; in front of the negative terminal - a resistance of 100 Ohms. Another capacitor is installed behind the bridge: it will be needed to smooth out voltage drops.

Most in a simple way Creating an LED lamp involves making a light source based on a broken lamp. It is necessary to check the functionality of the detected parts, which can be done using a 12 V battery.

Defective elements must be replaced. To do this, you should unsolder the contacts, remove the burnt out elements, and put new ones in their place. In this case, it is important to observe the alternation of anodes and cathodes, which are attached in series.

If you need to change only 2-3 pieces of the chip, you can simply solder them to the areas where the failed components were previously located.

For complete self-assembly, you need to connect 10 diodes in a row, observing the polarity rules. Several completed circuits are soldered to the wires.

When assembling circuits, it is important to ensure that the soldered ends do not touch each other, as this can lead to a short circuit in the device and failure of the system.

To avoid the flickering characteristic of LED lamps, the circuit described above can be supplemented with several details. Thus, it should consist of a diode bridge, 100 and 230 Ohm resistors, 400 nF and 10 μF capacitors.

To protect the device from voltage surges, a 100 Ohm resistor is placed at the beginning of the circuit, followed by a 400 nF capacitor, after which a diode bridge and another 230 Ohm resistor are installed, followed by an assembled chain of LEDs.

A similar scheme is also quite accessible to a novice master. To do this, you need two 12k resistors and two chains of the same number of LEDs, which are soldered in series, taking into account the polarity. In this case, one strip on the R1 side is connected to the cathode, and the other to R2, the anode.

Lamps made according to this scheme have a softer light, since the operating elements are lit in turn, making the pulsation of the flashes almost invisible to the naked eye.

The devices are successfully used as a table lamp and for other purposes. To create optimal lighting, experts recommend using strips of 20-40 diodes. A smaller number gives a small luminous flux; connecting a larger number of elements is technically quite difficult.

The basis of the basics is the calculation and principle of operation of a current driver with a quenching capacitor

Resistor R1 limits the current surge when power is applied until the circuit stabilizes (about 1 second). Value from 50 to 150 Ohm. Power 2 W.

Resistor R2 ensures the operation of the ballast capacitor. Firstly, it discharges it when the power is turned off. At a minimum, to prevent you from being shocked when unscrewing the light bulb. The second task is to prevent a current surge in the case when the polarity of the charged capacitor and the first half-wave of 220 volts do not coincide.

Actually, the damping capacitor C1 is the basis of the circuit. It is a kind of current filter. By selecting the capacitance, you can set any current in the circuit. For our diodes it should not exceed 20 mA at peak mains voltage.

Electrolytic capacitor C2 is needed to prevent the lamp from flickering. LEDs have no inertia when turned on and off. Therefore, the eye will see a flicker with a frequency of 50 Hz. By the way, cheap Chinese lamps are guilty of this. The quality of the capacitor is checked using any digital camera, even a smartphone. Looking at the burning diodes through a digital matrix, you can see blinking, indistinguishable to the human eye.

In addition, this electrolyte provides an unexpected bonus: the lamps do not turn off immediately, but with a noble slow attenuation until the capacity is discharged.

I = 200*C*(1.41*U network – U led)

I – resulting circuit current in amperes

200 is a constant (mains frequency 50Hz * 4)

1.41 – constant

C – capacitance of capacitor C1 (quenching) in farads

U network - estimated network voltage (ideally 220 volts)

U led – total voltage drop across the LEDs (in our case – 3.3 volts, multiplied by the number of LED elements)

By selecting the number of LEDs (with a known voltage drop) and the capacity of the quenching capacitor, it is necessary to achieve the required current. It should not be higher than specified in the characteristics of the LEDs. It is the strength of the current that you regulate the brightness of the glow, and inversely proportional to the lifespan of the LEDs.

For convenience, you can create a formula in Excel.

The circuit has been tested several times, the first copy was assembled almost 3 years ago, it works in a kitchen lamp, there have been no malfunctions.

Let's move on to practical implementation projects. There is no point in discussing the number of LED elements and capacitor capacity in individual circuits: the projects are individual for each lamp. Calculated strictly according to the formula. The above circuit for 60 LEDs with a 68 microfarad capacitor is not just an example, but a real calculation for a current in the circuit of 15 mA (to extend the life of the lights).

The rectified current goes to series-connected LEDs HL1-HL27, the number of which can reach 80 pieces.

To avoid flickering and achieve a consistently even color, it is advisable to use capacitor C2, which should have as large a capacity as possible.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

This means that, having on hand non-working linear or compact fluorescent lamps and several elements given above in this article, you can create an LED lamp with your own hands, which has a number of advantages. One of the main ones is low cost compared to lamps that can be purchased in a store.

As you can see, assembling an LED lamp with your own hands is not a problem if you know a little about electrical elements and have the skills to work with a soldering iron. Of course, this is not the only scheme. You can make a lamp from an ordinary energy-saving lamp, or a chandelier using incandescent lamps. The main thing is to correctly assemble the power supply, adjusting it to a voltage of 12 volts and the current strength of a piece of LED strip.

DIY 220V LED lamp - assembly diagram

How to choose a power supply for a 12V LED strip

How to make light music from LED strip with your own hands

DIY LED lamps

With the rising cost of electricity, many are thinking about purchasing LED light sources, which bring significant savings and are excellent substitutes for natural lighting. However, today not many can afford LED lamps, because their cost is still quite high. Therefore, thanks to folk craftsmen, in this article we will look at how you can make a lighting device from LEDs with your own hands.

DIY LED lamps have high technical characteristics. They are almost as good as factory models in terms of qualities such as strength, reliability, and durability. The assembly of such devices is accessible to almost everyone: to successfully complete it, you just need to strictly follow the diagrams and carefully carry out all the prescribed manipulations.

Assembling a simple LED lamp

Let's consider the implementation of a lamp in a standard base from a fluorescent lamp. To do this, we will have to slightly change the above list of materials. In this case we use:

• old base E27;
• NK6 LEDs;
• driver RLD2-1;
• a piece of plastic or thick cardboard;
• superglue;
• electrical wiring;
• soldering iron, pliers, scissors.

Initially, you need to disassemble the lamp. For luminescent devices, the connection of the base to the plate with tubes is carried out using latches. It is important to locate the fastening location and pry the elements with a screwdriver, which will allow you to easily disconnect the cartridge.

When disassembling the device, extreme care must be taken so as not to damage the tubes that contain a toxic substance inside. At the same time, it is necessary to monitor the integrity of the electrical wiring connected to the base, as well as preserve the parts contained in it.

We use the upper part with connected gas-discharge tubes to make the plate necessary for connecting the LEDs. It is enough to remove the tubular elements and attach the LED parts to the remaining round holes.

To secure them securely, it is better to make an additional plastic or cardboard cover, which will serve to isolate the chips.

The lamp will use NK6 LEDs, each of which consists of 6 crystals with parallel connection. They allow you to create a fairly bright lighting device with a minimum of electricity consumption.

To connect each LED to the cover, you need to make two holes. They should be pierced carefully in strict accordance with the diagram.

The plastic part allows you to firmly fix the LED elements, while the use of cardboard requires additional fastening of the LEDs to the base using liquid nails or superglue.

Since the device is designed to use six LEDs with a power of 0.5 watts each, the circuit must include three elements connected in parallel.

In a design that will operate from a 220 V power supply, you need to provide an RLD2-1 driver, which you should purchase in a store or do it yourself.

To avoid short circuits, it is important to insulate the driver and board from each other using plastic or cardboard before starting assembly. Since the lamp barely heats up, there is no need to worry about overheating.

Having selected all the components, you can assemble the structure according to the diagram, and then connect it to the electrical network to check the glow.

The device, powered by a standard 220V power supply, has low energy consumption and a power of 3 Watts. The latter figure is 2-3 times less than that of fluorescent devices and 10 times less than that of incandescent lamps.

Although the light output is only 100-120 lumens, the dazzling white color makes the lamp appear much brighter. The assembled lamp can be used as a table lamp or to illuminate a compact room, for example, a corridor or closet.

LED lamps on various bases

Halogen lamp

Economical lighting lamps are already found in almost every home. We offer you to consider how to make an LED lamp with your own hands, what materials will be required for this, as well as tips on what criteria should be used to select them.

Step-by-step development of an LED lamp

Initially, we are faced with the task of checking the performance of the LEDs and measuring the supply voltage of the network. When setting of this device to prevent damage electric shock We suggest using a 220/220 V isolation transformer. This will also ensure safer measurements when setting up our future LED lamp.

Please note that if any elements of the circuit are connected incorrectly, an explosion is possible, so strictly follow the instructions given below.

Most often, the problem of improper assembly lies precisely in poor-quality soldering of components.

When making calculations to measure the voltage drop in the current consumption of LEDs, you need to use a universal measuring multimeter. Basically, such homemade LED lamps are used at a voltage of 12 V, but our design will be designed for a mains voltage of 220 V AC.

Video: LED lamp at home

High light output is achieved with diodes at a current of 20-25 mA. But cheap LEDs can produce an unpleasant bluish glow, which is also very harmful to the eyes, so we recommend diluting your homemade LED lamp with a small amount of red LEDs. For 10 cheap white ones, 4 red LEDs will be enough.

The circuit is quite simple and is designed to power LEDs directly from the network, without an additional power supply. The only drawback of such a circuit is that all its components are not isolated from the mains supply and the LED lamp will not provide protection against possible electric shock. So be careful when assembling and installing this light. Although in the future the circuit can be upgraded and isolated from the network.

Simplified lamp diagram

1. When turned on, a 100 ohm resistor protects the circuit from voltage surges; if it is not there, you need to use a higher power diode bridge rectifier.
2. The 400 nF capacitor limits the current required for the LEDs to glow normally. If necessary, you can add more LEDs if their total current consumption does not exceed the limit set by the capacitor.
3. Make sure that the capacitor used is designed for an operating voltage of at least 350 V, it should be one and a half times the mains voltage.
4. A 10uF capacitor is needed to provide a stable, flicker-free light source. Its rated voltage should be twice that measured across all LEDs connected in series during operation.

In the photo you see a burnt out lamp, which will soon be disassembled for a DIY LED lamp.

We disassemble the lamp, but very carefully so as not to damage the base, then clean it and degrease it with alcohol or acetone. We pay special attention to the hole. We clean it of excess solder and process it again. This is necessary for high-quality soldering of components in the base.

Photo: lamp socket
Photo: resistors and transistor

Now we need to solder a tiny rectifier, we use a regular soldering iron for these purposes and have already prepared a diode bridge in advance and process the surface, working very carefully so as not to damage the previously installed parts.

Photo: soldering the rectifier

It is fashionable to use the glue of a simple hot-melt assembly gun as an insulating layer. A PVC tube is also suitable, but it is advisable to use a material specially designed for this purpose, filling all the space between the parts and at the same time fixing them. We have a ready-made basis for the future lamp.

Photo: glue and cartridge

After these manipulations, we proceed to the most interesting part: installing LEDs. We use a special circuit board as a basis; it can be bought at any electronic components store or even taken from some old and unnecessary equipment, having first cleared the board of unnecessary parts.

Photo: LEDs on the board

It is very important to check each of our boards for functionality, because otherwise all the work is in vain. We pay special attention to the contacts of the LEDs; if necessary, we further clean and narrow them.

Now we are assembling the constructor, we need to solder all the boards, we have four of them, to the capacitor. After this operation, we again insulate everything with glue and check the connections of the diodes to each other. We place the boards at the same distance from each other so that the light spreads evenly.

LED connection

We also solder a 10 uF capacitor without additional wires; this is a good soldering experience for future electricians.

Finished mini lamp Resistor and lamp

Everything is ready. We recommend covering our lamp with a lampshade, because... LEDs emit extremely bright light that is very hard on the eyes. If you place our homemade lamp in a “cut” made of paper, for example, or fabric, you will get a very soft light, a romantic night light or a sconce for the nursery. By replacing the soft lampshade with a standard glass one, we get a fairly bright glow that does not irritate the eyes. This is a good and very beautiful option for a home or cottage.

If you want to power the lamp using batteries or from USB, you need to exclude the 400 nF capacitor and rectifier from the circuit, connecting the circuit directly to a 5-12 V DC source.

This is a good device for illuminating an aquarium, but you need to choose a special waterproof lamp; you can find it by visiting any store of electromechanical devices; these exist in any city, be it Chelyabinsk or Moscow.

Photo: lamp in action

Lamp for the office

You can make a creative wall, table lamp or floor lamp for your office using several dozen LEDs. But for this, the flow of light will be insufficient for reading; here you need a sufficient level of illumination of the workplace.

First you need to determine the number of LEDs and rated power.

After that, find out the load capacity of the rectifying diode bridge and capacitor. We connect a group of LEDs to the negative contact of the diode bridge. We connect all the LEDs as shown in the figure.

Diagram: connecting lamps

Solder all 60 LEDs together. If you need to connect additional LEDs, just continue to solder them sequentially, plus to minus. Use wires to connect the negative of one group of LEDs to the next until the entire assembly process is complete. Now add a diode bridge. Connect it as shown in the picture below. Connect the positive terminal to the positive wire of the first group of LEDs, connect the negative terminal to the common wire of the last LED in the group.

Short LED wires

Next, you need to prepare the base of the old light bulb by cutting off the wires from the board and soldering them to the AC inputs on the diode bridge, marked with the ~ sign. You can use plastic fasteners, screws and nuts to connect the two boards together if all the diodes are placed on separate boards. Don't forget to fill the boards with glue, insulating them from short circuits. This is a fairly powerful network LED lamp that will last up to 100,000 hours of continuous operation.

Adding a capacitor

If you increase the supply voltage to the LEDs in order to make the light brighter, the LEDs will begin to heat up, which significantly reduces their durability. In order to avoid this, you need to connect a 10 W recessed or table lamp with an additional capacitor. Simply connect one side of the base to the negative output of the bridge rectifier and the positive side, through an additional capacitor, to the positive output of the rectifier. You can use 40 LEDs instead of the suggested 60, thereby increasing the overall brightness of the lamp.

Video: how to make an LED lamp with your own hands

If desired, a similar lamp can be made using a powerful LED, but then you will need capacitors of a different value.

As you can see, assembling or repairing a conventional DIY LED lamp is not particularly difficult. And it won't take much time and effort. This lamp is also suitable as a summer option, for example for a greenhouse; its light is absolutely harmless to plants.

Technological progress is moving forward at tremendous speed. Light sources are becoming more economical and smaller. Fluorescent light bulbs became an intermediate link between LED lamps and incandescent lamps. Energy saving batteries were quite economical and durable, but did not light up immediately and required time to warm up.

At my dacha in the hallway there was a thin flat fluorescent lamp 3 cm thick. It was lit very dimly, you’d already have time to undress, and it was just starting to flare up, in general it was just darkness. Since the ceiling was low and covered with ceiling tiles, it was impossible to install a thick one; it would quickly be demolished with your head. It’s also a shame to throw it away, it looks nice.

And then diode lamps appeared on sale (8 years ago), but the thickness of 30 mm did not allow putting an LED behind it. Therefore, it was disassembled and the filling was integrated into a new body.

• 1. Donor characteristics
• 2. Disassembly of the donor
• 3. How to make an LED lamp with your own hands?
• 4. Check the heating
• 5. Result of modernization
• 6. DIY LED lamp repair

Donor characteristics

5 months ago, for the sake of LED modules and drivers, we bought 11W ASD LEDs from a local store for 103 rubles. thing. Their actual power turned out to be only 8.5W. However, they had a number of significant disadvantages:

1. the case smelled terribly of plastic when heated;
2. the radiator inside is too small;
3. LEDs without a frosted bulb heated up to 95°, and with it even more;
4. there were no holes for ventilation in the case.

The filling was good for a low price, but they saved a lot on the radiator and plastic. Some were disassembled into components, some were modernized and placed in the storage room and on the landing. I also want to put them in the entrance after I install the video surveillance system. And then the punks still stole one of the corn that illuminated the intercom.

Donor disassembly

Let's repeat the above modernization process with a regular round matte lamp. Many of the readers do not understand LEDs at all and do not know the principle of operation. Have you ever held a soldering iron in your hands and really want to get rid of the energy savers.

Making an LED lamp with your own hands is very simple. There is no need to bother with finding a plate with LEDs and selecting a driver for it. Just buy a 220V diode lamp, everything is already there, sold everywhere.

First, we dismantle the flask; it comes in plastic and glass. I couldn’t remove the glass; it was glued tightly and always cracked. Plastic is usually durable polycarbonate and difficult to break. To determine the material, try scratching; glass does not scratch.

Then we take out a module with 20 SMD 5730 LEDs and a driver powered by a 220V network. Be sure to save the white thermal paste; there is no need to wipe it off, it will be used later.

How to make an LED lamp with your own hands?

Before installing the module into the lamp body, it is necessary to remove the paint layer for direct contact with the metal. We outline the aluminum plate and sand this square.

We drill 2 holes for attaching the plate, select a pair of bolts and nuts.

We solder the power wires and move them from the back to the front so that they do not interfere with pressing tightly.

We insulate the driver board in order to prevent short circuits and comply with safety regulations, because it has 220 Volts. We will protect ourselves from electric shock due to direct contact, and that there is no phase on the housing if the housing is metal.

Lubricate with additional thermal paste. My contact with the sanded area was poor, the iron was not very thick and was deformed. Especially when cored and drilled. The contact patch is checked by the imprint of the paste, the larger the better. I got about 30% contact, maybe that will be enough. It turned out that while tidying up, my wife threw away a small bag of white plasticine (thermal paste) and there was nothing to apply. Maybe what's left during disassembly will be enough.

Checking the heating

..

We turn on the LED overhead lamp for 30 minutes in an open form without a cover. It is advisable that the heating does not exceed 80°; in an LED lamp for home, the module heats up to 95°. Since the product is a budget product, they definitely didn’t put high-quality ice there that could work for a long time at such heating.

Even if it’s above 80°, it’s not so scary, because it’s in the pantry, I work for a maximum of 30 minutes a day. Thus, it will work not 100, but only 30-50 years, which is also not bad.

Of course, a standard light bulb radiator, which initially stands in absolutely closed conditions without air circulation, would be enough. In the open air it would cool much better, and could easily provide an acceptable temperature of about 80-85°.

The aluminum radiator could be mounted on a ceramic cartridge with an E27 base. Can be straightened from a cylindrical shape to a flat one. But when bent, aluminum cannot withstand deformation and begins to break; accordingly, thermal conductivity in such a narrow place becomes even worse.

Measurements showed an average of 79.5°, this is a good indicator. To ensure objectivity of the data, I took another 10 measurements at various time intervals. Everything is fine.

Result of modernization

After assembling the case, the product receives a finished look and is ready for wall mounting in an overhead manner.

DIY LED lamp repair

To make it easier for you to understand the design of an LED lamp, consider that it is structurally similar to a diode lamp. As a rule, it has the same disadvantages:

1. LED overheating;
2. poor contact of the plate with the diodes and the radiator;
3. poor assembly;
4. power supply with poor current stabilization;
5. cooling system too small;
6. The bulb is made of matte plastic with low light transmittance.

To determine the faulty element yourself, you will need to measure the voltage on the wires going to the diode module:

1. if there is voltage, then one of the diodes in the series circuit is faulty;
2. there is no voltage, which means the problem is in the driver, the current source.

If you have experience, you can re-solder it yourself. If you have no experience, then you can turn to a neighbor or a master.