The main idea of ​​any stabilizer is the safety of your equipment from bad and jumping voltage. Any electrical device needs a stable voltage to work. The main characteristic that you should know when choosing a stabilizer is the power that the electrical appliances you use require. Now, manufacturers almost always use kilovolt-amps to indicate power.

Consider the principle of operation of the device in more detail

A device adapted to stabilize the incoming voltage and clean this voltage from various high-frequency fluctuations. Stabilizers are classified according to the type of arrangement of mechanisms, due to which the operation of the entire device as a whole is carried out.

relay stabilizers. According to statistics, the majority prefers relay stabilizers. This is due to the good value for money. One of the advantages is the speed, which depends on the strength of the input voltage jump, and ranges from 0.3 to 0.6 seconds.

There are also disadvantages, consisting in the fact that when switching the relay, a small jump in electricity may appear. Such a jump is completely safe for technology, since its value is minimal - 10-20 V.

In modern stabilizers, all work is done by a power autotransformer and an electrical unit. There, the process of input and output of electricity is controlled. From the microcontroller, signals are given to the keys and power relays. When the process of control and formation takes place, the time during which the keys were triggered is taken into account. Thanks to this, the transmission of electricity is carried out almost without gaps. Next, you can see in detail the diagram of the relay stabilizer device.

Electromechanical voltage stabilizers. Its work is carried out due to the fact that the main control board analyzes the voltage that is included, and after scanning, a signal is transmitted to a special motor located inside the electric coil. One of the advantages: compared to a relay stabilizer, an electromechanical one guarantees higher and more accurate stabilization. The stabilization accuracy depends, first of all, on the number of turns in the transformer.

The motor capabilities of various stabilizers limit the movements of the brush and most often the movement speed is 5-15 V / s. Electricity surges can be dangerous for equipment only when they reach 25-45 volts.

So that the stabilizers do not freeze, you must not forget that different motors produce. Most devices use the incoming voltage for power, and when it is heavily consumed by other devices, the stabilizer stops working, as it lacks power. If you have a stable voltage without sudden drops, then you are not afraid.

Thyristor (triac) voltage stabilizers. The work takes place due to power keys, which are also called thyrists in a different way. Thanks to them, the transformer sections switch automatically. Such devices have many similar features with relay ones, but they are superior in terms of the number of stabilization steps and accuracy.

Approximate device diagram

In the diagram, it can be observed that with the help of keys, the transformer taps are switched, and the output voltage changes slightly. Many refuse to purchase such a stabilizer because of the high price, but on the other hand, you get silence and comfort, since the mechanisms emit a minimum amount of noise during operation.

How to connect correctly

In fact, if you have finances, then it is better to turn to professionals with such a case, since many mistakes can be made when connecting on your own.

Before you start installing the stabilizer, prepare the site:

• ventilate the room well;
• carefully wipe the dust in the place where the stabilizer will stand;
• carefully check that moisture does not get into the place you have chosen.

Upon purchase, you will be given a device passport in the kit. Read all points well. If you transported the stabilizer to sub-zero temperatures, then before installing it, you must definitely hold the mechanism in a warm place from room temperature. Otherwise, condensation may form inside the device.

When connecting, the device must be disconnected from the power supply! The contacts of the outlet to which the stabilizer will be connected must be grounded, or the device itself must be grounded independently.

Often there are situations that the data sheet does not spell out how to properly install the device. In this case, it is still better to contact the manufacturer for instructions, but if you still decide to do the installation yourself, then here is a small instruction:

In all stabilizers, the phases are located along the edges of the terminal block, zeros closer to the center and ground in the middle.

• If during installation, the Latin letter H appeared on the screen of the device, this means that the voltage inside the device has jumped above the set level;
• if the Latin letter L appears, this means that the voltage inside the device has fallen below the set level.

When such jumps occur during connection, special protection is triggered. If there were Latin letters C-H, this means that in total, the power of all devices connected to the stabilizer has crossed the permissible barrier and because of this, the protection is triggered.

In order to avoid such constant voltage surges, a special relay is used that controls the voltage. Here is an example of how to properly connect the stabilizer.

What must be done:

• calculate the total power of all connected devices. This is done like this - divide the total power by seven;
• find out what is the minimum threshold for voltage in your home.

Thanks to these characteristics, you can choose a stabilizer specifically for your home. To make it easier for you to calculate the power that you use daily, there is a special table.

Electrical fixtures		Instruments
	power, VA		power, VA
Hair care products (dryer, curling iron)		Drill, screwdriver
		perforator
electric hob		electric grinder
Multicooker, toaster, blender		Circular Saw
coffee machine		electric planer
Electrical devices for space heating		jigsaw
Grilling accessories		Grinder

This phenomenon is not at all harmless, as it can cause serious damage to property and lead to a fire. Computer and household appliances are extremely sensitive to such failures.

To avoid such significant consequences, it is necessary to install voltage stabilizers that will protect sensitive expensive equipment from distortions in the voltage network, as well as from various interference. But in order for such a device to really function normally, it is required to strictly observe the scheme for connecting the stabilizer to the network.

Connecting the stabilizer to a 220 V network

It is advisable to install a voltage stabilizer immediately after the electric meter. When any distortion occurs, the single-phase stabilizer immediately disconnects the load. It is necessary to connect the device only when the mains is de-energized.

Don't forget the annual preventive maintenance voltage stabilizer. First of all, you need to check the reliability of connecting the household device, for which you need to strip the contacts and tighten them a little.

The neutral wire is first connected to the stabilizer, after which they go to the main wire of the mains voltage. To do this, you can use twist or terminals.

If the stabilizer has four contacts, the circuit is almost the same: "phase" - input and output; "zero" - input and output.

In such a case, the neutral wire is also broken if the load is connected entirely through the stabilizer.

Connecting the stabilizer to a 380 V network

If the house is equipped with a three-phase power supply system, special protective devices are provided - the so-called three-phase voltage stabilizers. But usually consumers also mount three single-phase devices. According to electrical safety standards, this is permissible. After all, three-phase energy consumers are rarely used in everyday life - devices equipped with electric motors. Therefore, three single-phase stabilizers provide a fairly effective load, designed for a three-phase network.

In this case, all devices are connected in the same way as the stabilizer to a 220 V network, only each for a separate phase. As for the neutral wire, it is connected inextricably.

The advantage of this method is the savings, since three single-phase devices are cheaper than one three-phase device. Do not forget about convenience, since a three-phase unit that fails will turn off the power supply completely. With three installations at once, this happens extremely rarely.

Rules for mounting a voltage stabilizer

When installing a stabilizer in a country house, it must be remembered that the place of intended installation must certainly be well ventilated. Otherwise, the device will overheat and fail after a while.

It is advisable to install such a device in an open area. If for some reason this is not possible, it is permissible to mount it on a special shelf or in a niche. But the parameters for such a compartment should be strictly observed: there should be a gap of at least 10 cm between the body of the household appliance and the walls of the niche.

Blinds or curtains, which often decorate such a niche, should also be made of non-combustible materials.

The cross section of the wire used for connection must necessarily correspond to the total load. It is also imperative to mount a residual current circuit breaker. Despite the fact that any stabilizers are supplied with such devices, an additional RCD contributes to a significant extension of the life of the device.

When carrying out these works, it is imperative to turn off the mains voltage. Loads must be connected to the device, whose rated power is higher than that of the device itself. The power of the stabilizer should exceed the power of consumers connected to the network by 20-30%.

Features of connecting a voltage stabilizer

It is extremely important when connecting the device to observe the sequence of connecting the wires and strive to fully comply with the diagram. After connecting, be sure to check how well the device functions - there should not be any extraneous noise and crackles.

There are models of stabilizers that do not have connecting contacts on the case. This is a complete block that has sockets for sockets. This design is typical for protective devices with low power. To such a stabilizer, equipment that needs protection is connected via an outlet. Connection to terminals in this case not required.

When installing a voltage stabilizer, it should be remembered that in no case should it be placed in front of an electric meter. Such an approach is likely to cause complaints from representatives of regulatory authorities. So this device can only be placed after the counter to avoid trouble.

Installing a residual current device

Any leakage of electricity is undesirable. If any electrical system functions normally, the current flows exclusively through electrical circuits. If there is a current relative to the ground, it will be a leakage. It appears during a breakdown on the case, which was originally grounded, when the user touches the current-carrying elements. In this case, the leakage current will pass through the person.

Leakage can also occur when the electrical wiring is outdated.

It is best to connect the residual current device as close as possible to the power input. Since the network gap leading to the electric meter is strictly controlled by electric power organizations, an RCD should be installed after the meter. Then it will be possible to provide complete protection of the entire circuit from possible leakages to the ground.

This connection method has a drawback - the de-energization of the electrified zone passing through such protection. If such an outcome is highly undesirable, it is better to install several RCDs or mount it only for a particularly significant section of the circuit in terms of electrical safety. But it should be remembered that such security is needed everywhere.

RCD is also called differential protection, it is designed to automatically turn off the supply of electrical energy if there is a current leakage to the ground.

The RCD must track the difference in current values ​​between the phase and neutral wires. If the operation of the device is nominal, there should not be such a difference - how much current passes through the phase wire, the same amount then passes through the zero one.

But if, for example, the wiring is laid in a damp room and at the same time has damage in the insulation, then moisture gets through the damage to the current-carrying core and a circuit is formed between the ground and the wire. This leakage current will be the difference in values, to which the residual current device will respond.

When such a leakage current is taken from the coil of the internal transformer and then transferred to a polarized relay, the signal will be amplified in it. As a result, a mechanism will start that will turn off the RCD. Therefore, until the malfunction is detected and eliminated, the RCD will again knock out with each platoon, forming a protection.

Since any device can break, RCDs are no exception. For such a case, it is equipped with a self-test function - testing. There is a test button on the front side of the device, if you press it, the leakage current will be simulated. As a result, the device will automatically work and turn off. Therefore, if you suspect that the device is malfunctioning, just press such a button to make sure that this is actually the case.

When connecting the RCD, one should be guided by the inscriptions located on the body of the equipment itself. There are not only single-phase, but also three-phase RCDs, which differ in the number of contacts. They are connected in the same way: a neutral wire is connected to the neutral, and three phases are connected to the phase contacts.

It is advisable to install such devices where it is required to ensure reliable electrical safety. And where an unexpected power outage can cause negative consequences, it is better not to use such protection.

When installing RCDs and grounding devices in a house, you must know

Grounding without grounding or RCD is prohibited. Improper grounding is much more dangerous than using the mains without it at all.

It is impossible to connect the “ground” terminals to natural or artificial grounding of those electrical appliances and sockets that are protected only by automatic machines designed to protect the wiring from short circuits in phase-phase and phase-neutral circuits. The fact is that the machines are able to work only from a current that is several times higher than their nominal value. Homemade or natural grounding usually has a resistance that is not capable of creating such currents. Therefore, it will not be able to carry out a protective shutdown of the machines within 0.4 s (safety standard).

For example, if the neutral grounding at the substation complies with the rules and is 4 ohms and the grounding equipped in the house will also be 4 ohms, and a breakdown occurs in one of the electrical appliances connected to the network, on all cases connected to grounding by means of protective grounding conductors of the devices a dangerous potential equal to 110 V will arise. If the grounding resistance is higher than 4 ohms, then the life-threatening voltage on the housings of household appliances will be even higher.

In no case should the ground terminal of electrical appliances, sockets, as well as metal housings of household appliances be connected to third-party conductive elements of the building and pipes.

It is necessary to correctly connect the wires during installation. Currently, most often used for this purpose are connecting blocks. Of course, they significantly speed up the wiring process, but they are still not as reliable as traditional twisting, which involves subsequent welding or soldering of wires.

If a breakdown occurs on the housing in a household appliance that is connected to a pipeline or other third-party conductive element, the machines may not work. As a result, all conductive objects connected electrically will be energized. As a result, mass destruction can occur. electric shock, fraught with death, and there will also be a high probability of fire.

A zeroed and grounded pipe may cease to be such at any time. For example, if it will be repaired or due to corrosion, which often occurs at the places of threaded connections. Today, plastic pipes are often used, which cannot act as a protective conductor or natural ground.

It is impossible in those houses where two-wire wiring is installed, to connect the ground terminal of electrical appliances and sockets, metal cases of household appliances to its neutral wire, i.e. it is forbidden to null the ground terminal of such devices.

Planting the “ground” terminal into the shield and grounding it there, as well as connecting the terminal to the neutral wire using a jumper, is deadly.

A break in the neutral wire can occur anywhere. In this case, almost all electrical appliances connected to the network burn out, the wires on the overhead lines overlap, the phase and neutral are reversed, and, as a result, a dangerous network skew voltage occurs on the zeroed housings of household appliances.

In the event that the three-wire wiring is carried out and connected, but the ground has not yet been equipped, the protective conductor in the shield should be disconnected from chandeliers and other electrical appliances, sockets and a protective bus and insulated. If a breakdown occurs in one of the devices that are under dangerous voltage through a protective conductor, then in this case all cases of electrical appliances capable of conducting current will be energized. This situation is especially dangerous in the absence of an RCD.

If protective conductors are connected, but there is no grounding, then all capacitive and static currents of electrical appliances connected to the network are summed through the protective conductor. As a result, even when using serviceable household appliances, a fatal electric shock is possible. Therefore, it is important to completely turn off the electricity and remove all plugs from the sockets before disconnecting the protective conductors.

First of all, the RCD protects against electric shock, despite the fact that the rules speak of such a device only as an additional protection. The machine is able to prevent a short circuit, and grounding - to remove the capacitive and static currents of electrical appliances, which, although not completely, still reduces the dangerous potential.

We must also not forget that the installation of switches, electrical appliances and sockets without the use of a ten-ampere RCD is deadly.

Do not voluntarily connect a neutral wire to ground. This will lead to re-grounding at the input of the neutral wire and, as a result, zeroing of electrical appliances.

Power surges and power surges are one of the most common causes of premature failure of electrical appliances and household appliances. About how voltage fluctuations affect the operation of electrical equipment. To avoid such troubles, it makes sense to buy a voltage stabilizer. The key to its long and proper operation is the correct installation site. Let's talk about this in more detail.

Stabilizer - before the counter or after

The first question that arises is to connect the stabilizer before or after the electricity meter? The first option is theoretically the best, since the voltage regulator in this case provides protection not only for household electrical consumers, but also for the meter. But in practice, with such a connection, not a single energy supply organization will accept a meter. Even if you seal the terminal block of the stabilizer, you will still be forced to reconnect it after the meter. The fact is that even at idle without a connected load, voltage stabilizers consume 30-60 W, and the power increases when the voltage is equalized.

If the stabilizer is purchased for a house or apartment, then it would be correct to install it as close as possible to the switchboard. If the stabilizer is bought to protect a particular electrical appliance, for example, a heating boiler, installation in close proximity to it is desirable.

How to install a stabilizer so that it does not overheat.

The stabilizer generates heat during operation. The more loads connected to it, the more it heats up. Therefore, the design provides for ventilation to remove heat and supply cooler air from outside. Fresh air is forced into the case by a fan, and the heated air exits through the vents on the other side. They must not be closed, otherwise the equipment may overheat.

For ease of maintenance of stabilizers, manufacturers recommend providing at least 100 cm of free space on the front side, and at least 50 cm on the side of the terminal block.

A common mistake during installation is the installation of stabilizers under the ceiling. This is usually done to save space. But at the same time, the laws of physics are forgotten - according to which warm air rises, and cold air falls. Therefore, under the ceiling there will always be the highest temperature in the room, which in summer without an air conditioner can easily reach values ​​that are critical for the operation of the stabilizer. For example, most stabilizers work correctly at temperatures up to +40°C.

In addition, it is short-sighted to complicate access to the terminal blocks, the switch and the control panel. It may even turn out that a revision of the contacts is required, or it may be necessary to change the stabilization accuracy or the output voltage. And do not forget about the stabilizer mode switches, which are most often located in its upper part. Having mounted the equipment too high, sooner or later you will have to squat on a stepladder under the ceiling. It is not necessary to do so.

Optimum stabilizer installation height

In the previous paragraph, it was mentioned that installation under the ceiling is undesirable. It is also undesirable to install the stabilizer just on the floor, especially when it comes to the boiler room. The probability of leakage of a valve or pipe in such premises is non-zero. There is no need to explain what happens to electrical equipment when water gets on it. Therefore, in such rooms only wall-mounted voltage stabilizers are allowed.

The optimal installation height is considered to be 1.5 - 1.7 m. It is high enough from the floor, and at the same time, the information board with the control panel is in the line of sight, easily accessible. Safe and comfortable.

Operating temperature of the voltage stabilizer

The permissible temperature regime for the operation of the stabilizer is indicated in its passport. Some models can only work at positive temperatures above 0 or +5°C. This means that they can only be installed in heated rooms.

Others work perfectly in the temperature range from -40 to +40 ° C - they are suitable for installation in closed unheated rooms. However, they should not be placed outdoors to prevent atmospheric precipitation from getting inside. The exception is stabilizers in the so-called outdoor version.

Stabilizers in the outdoor version are usually equipped with a metal anti-vandal cabinet of protection class - IP33. If such a cabinet is screwed to a support, it can protect expensive equipment not only from moisture and dirt, but also from theft.

Since the possible installation options are determined, among other things, by the temperature regime, it makes sense to decide on the desired performance at the stage of choosing a stabilizer, so that later you do not have to rack your brains when installing it.

Dust and humidity

Excessive dustiness of the room is harmful because dust impairs heat transfer, which, as a result, can lead to overheating of the equipment and its premature failure. During operation, the stabilizer sucks in dust. Therefore, when cleaning the house, do not forget to vacuum around the stabilizer too.

High humidity is highly undesirable. Do not allow moisture to get on the case and inside the voltage stabilizer - keep it away from water and precipitation. How to do this is written above - wall installation or outdoor performance.

Noise level during stabilizer operation

Voltage stabilizers may hum or click a little during operation - this must be taken into account. Some of them work quite loudly, especially for servo models. The noise level of the stabilizer varies between 30-40 decibels. To make it easier to understand the degree of noise emitted, we illustrate it with a visual table.

Please read before installation specifications selected stabilizer and, based on them, choose the best place for it. If it is installed in a separate room behind a closed door, you will not hear its work.

So, how to choose the right place for a voltage stabilizer:

- the stabilizer is placed after the meter, closer to the electrical panel
- in a dry and warm room, well ventilated and dust-free
- the temperature mode of operation of the stabilizer must be observed
- the optimal installation height of the stabilizer is 1.5-1.7 m
- the distance from the ventilation openings to the walls and partitions is at least 50 cm
- the noise during the operation of the stabilizer should not interfere

The electricity supplied to residential apartments must comply with certain standards regarding both the form of the input voltage and its magnitude. It is believed that for a 220 Volt supply network, the maximum voltage deviation at the load should not exceed 10% of the nominal value. This requirement is explained by the fact that not all samples of household equipment are able to work with poor-quality power, which, with significant deviations from the norm, must be stabilized.

When getting acquainted with special stabilizing units (SA), one has to solve practical issues related to the order of their inclusion in the 220 Volt supply line. This review article is devoted to this problem.

Types of stabilizers

The correct connection of the CA to the apartment panel is impossible without taking into account the type of the selected device. When studying the whole variety of models of stabilizer devices, they can be assigned to one of the following classes:

• Electromechanical (drive) units;
• Relay systems;
• Magnetoelectric (ferromagnetic) stabilization devices;
• Pulse converter modules.

Let's consider each of these systems from the point of view of the convenience of its connection and the quality of the stabilization effect.

First of all, let's pay attention to drive devices in which switching of additional transformer windings is carried out by means of a small motor.

With its help, a removable block sliding along the bare parts of the coil ensures that the output voltage is adjusted in accordance with its changes at the input.

Typically, such systems are bulky and cannot fit in small niches. The same disadvantage characterizes ferromagnetic and relay systems, in which the principle of adjusting the output voltage is somewhat different from the described method of stabilization.

However, regardless of the specific circuit design, each of the CA includes a bulky transformer, which does not allow developers to reduce the dimensions of the device. The only way to solve the problem with the lack of space for the stabilizer is to choose a pulse device that has a much smaller size.

Note! A kind of "retribution" for this choice is the high cost of SA, which includes special electronic inverters.

Thus, the choice of a specific device model depends on the availability of space for installation, as well as on the capabilities of the user who decides to independently connect it to the network.

Selecting the type of protective device

Before you connect a voltage stabilizer to the 220 Volt power line, you need to understand the parameters of the potential supplied from the transformer substation, which are not always ideal. In addition, even with its high quality, due to strong current fluctuations in the load, the amplitude of the supply voltage can greatly “sag”.

All this makes it necessary to connect home consumers (or loads) using a stabilizing device according to a certain scheme, depending on a number of factors, namely:

• From the value of the nominal value of the supply potential (220 or 380 Volts);
• On the nature of the proposed protection (collective or individual system);
• On the quality of the voltage supplied by the substation in the area (in rural areas, for example).

Important! Only if all the factors listed above are taken into account, the correct connection of the voltage stabilizer can provide the expected effect.

When choosing a specific SA model, it is usually assumed that an individual single-phase device is optimal for city apartments, and in a private house (if there are 380 Volt power supply lines), a collective three-phase stabilizer of a certain class can be used.

Preparing the installation site

Since all responsibility for self-installation voltage stabilizer in the house falls on its owner, he must fulfill all the necessary conditions to ensure the correctness of these actions. At the same time, there are well-known rules regarding the choice of a place for SA. In the most general case, they come down to the following set of requirements:

• The room chosen for its installation must be dry and well ventilated, which excludes the possibility of moisture entering the internal components of the device;
• Particular attention must be paid to the installation of the device in spaces limited in size (in niches where the electrical panel is located, for example). In this case, you need to take care that the finishing wall materials are resistant to fire, that is, they are not combustible;
• In addition, a small gap (about 10 cm) should be left between the wall of the room and the body of the stabilizer.

Another condition for the correct choice of a place for the control system is the convenience and reliability of fastening its case when wall-mounted.

Self-connection of the stabilizer to the power supply panel must be preceded by a thorough study electrical circuit its terminal contacts. To do this, you need to turn the device with the back wall outward and examine the contact elements located on it.

It contains several groups of connections intended for the following connections:

• Phase and ground input line voltage 220 Volts;
• Separate ground terminal;
• Earth and phase contacts, to which the entire load line of an apartment or room is connected.

To connect the device to the network terminals, you will additionally need to understand the order of their location on the home shield. In addition, it will be necessary to determine the cable through which such a connection is made. Its type and operating parameters (core cross-section, in particular) are selected taking into account the power consumed by the device itself and household loads connected to it.

Additional Information. Usually, for these purposes, a typical VVG 3x1.5 (2.5) cable is selected, which should be enough for a medium power load.

Connection Features

General requirements

A typical voltage stabilizer connection scheme must satisfy a number of requirements, the main ones of which are given below:

• The stabilizer, if possible, should be located as close as possible to the home switchboard;
• It is included in the break of the phase wire extending from the output terminal of the electric meter in the direction of group machines;
• It is connected via a separate protective circuit breaker.

An example of a circuit solution for connecting the SA can be found in the figure below.

Work procedure

Regarding the procedure for directly connecting the stabilizer to the mains, there are also certain restrictions, which are expressed as follows:

• Before installing the device, it is necessary to completely remove the voltage from the electrical panel;

Note! It is most convenient to do this by means of a two-pole introductory machine located at the entrance to the apartment.

• In the serviced electrical network, it is mandatory to have a full-fledged grounding loop that provides reliable protection from electric shock;
• The installation of the SA should not be started immediately after it has been in the cold for a long time (you need to let it warm up beforehand);
• Stabilizers of limited power (up to 5 kW), used to serve single consumers, can be connected directly through the outlet. Such devices usually have a mobile design and are used for the protective connection of various types of household appliances (personal PC or TV, for example);
• Upon completion of the installation work, a visual check of the correct arrangement of all available connections and contacts is mandatory, after which you can try to connect the device to the line. If there are no any foreign cod and buzz, as well as a clear picture of the indication of input and input voltages, we can say that everything is connected correctly.

Additional conditions include the requirement not to connect consumers to the stabilizer, the power of which exceeds the same indicator for the device itself.

In the event that there are any difficulties during the installation of the unit, you should refer to its connection diagram, printed directly on the body of the device itself. In accordance with regulatory requirements, devices of this class must be subjected to an annual check, which consists in examining the quality of all available connections and their subsequent tightening (if necessary).

Stabilization of the three-phase supply voltage

When connecting SA to three-phase 380 Volt networks, it is usually practiced to receive the load of each of the lines on three single-phase stabilizers, which are then combined according to the “star” scheme. This approach allows you to save on the purchase of an expensive three-phase unit, as well as on its maintenance and repair.

Devices used in everyday life, as a rule, are characterized by low consumption, which also justifies the use of such a scheme. In urban apartments, where instead of full-fledged grounding, artificial zero separation is used, the following scheme for connecting single CAs is recommended.

Additional Information. In this diagram, to simplify the understanding of its operation, the protective PE bus is deliberately not drawn, and the combination of single-phase stabilizers is shown in a simplified form.

When forming such circuits, the working zero core coming from the entrance shield is distributed between the “N” terminals of each of the stabilizers, forming their parallel connection. In addition, it closes to the main ground bus (GZSH) of the switchboard, from which “zero” is supplied to the terminals of each of the consumers with separate wires.

Three phase inputs are connected to the input terminals of each of the linear SAs, and from their output contacts, voltages are supplied to the corresponding linear automata.

Note! It is possible to significantly simplify the circuit by combining the input and output working zero contacts (that is, use one common terminal to connect them).

The latter option is shown in the figure, where the number of terminals on the instrument case is reduced from 5 to 3.

Summarizing all that has been said, we note that the considered methods of connecting the SA are applied only after all the features of the consumers protected with their help are taken into account. In addition, the characteristics of the supply voltage must be taken into account, the fluctuations of which should not exceed the permissible limits.

Video

Particular attention was paid to uninterruptible power supplies and these devices. Automatic stabilizers can be used anywhere: in an apartment, private house and even in the country. The cost of devices is not too high, and installing and connecting a voltage stabilizer with your own hands is not difficult. Next, we will just talk about how to independently install and connect protective equipment for the whole house or apartment, providing step by step instructions for installation!

Step 1 - Decide on the type of protection

To date, there are stationary voltage stabilizers, which are installed throughout the house and mobile models that are able to serve one or more individual electrical appliances. In addition, fixed equipment can be three-phase or single-phase, depending on the application conditions. Do-it-yourself connection in this case has its own differences: either you will connect the device to 220 V, or to 380.

As a rule, in private houses and apartments, it would be best to connect a single-phase voltage stabilizer to the network near the switchboard, which will protect the entire network from overloads. That is why the connection instructions will be provided for a single-phase stationary electrical appliance.

Step 2 - Choose an installation location

When installing on your own, things are much more complicated, because. if you install the housing incorrectly in the house, at best, the protective device may fail, not to mention such consequences as a fire.

So, in order to install a voltage stabilizer in the room yourself, consider the following recommendations:

• the room must be dry and well ventilated as one of the main reasons for the breakdown of the device is the appearance of condensate inside the case;
• when installing the product in a niche, make sure that the finishing materials are fireproof - brick, concrete, metal or fiberglass;
• observe the air gap between the body of the equipment and the walls, on all sides the indent should be no less than 10 cm;
• if you decide to install a voltage stabilizer on the wall with your own hands, make sure that the stand (or anchor) can withstand the weight of the wall-mounted case.

How to properly install

Step 3 - We make the connection to the mains

In fact, it is quite simple to independently connect a voltage stabilizer to the network in the house. There is a terminal block with 5 connectors on the back of the device. Usually, the sequence of connecting wires is as follows (from left to right): input phase and zero, ground, phase and zero, going to the load. In the photo below you can see the location of the connectors:

Everything you need is right, then do the installation yourself, according to the diagram (for a single-phase device):

That's the whole technology of installing and connecting a voltage stabilizer with your own hands. As you can see, there is nothing complicated, the main thing is to take into account all the requirements and recommendations. Finally, I would like to note that annually you should check the reliability of the wire connection in the terminal block and, if necessary, tighten the screws.