Summer begins, and with it my light tests begin. diode lamps. In this post I will talk about LED bulbs in base H4 designed for car and motorcycle. These are the first lamps I have tested that have a shutter, due to which the light-shadow border of this lamp in the low beam should be identical to the halogen lamp. I have been trying to get lamps of this type for my tests for a very long time, and finally it worked. Read more about these lamps below.

First, as usual, about packaging and packaging. On one lamp, for the convenience of testing, I signed the contacts, please do not pay attention to this. The lamps are delivered in a rigid white cardboard box, inside of which there are two lamps and instructions with a paper logo of the store. In the instructions, the characteristics and several pictures with recommendations for installing these paws. Pay attention to the type of dust cover for the H4 lamp, it does not completely cover the lamp and there is enough space for air intake. Further, when I install my boot, I will say a few more words about this.

The lamps are made in an aluminum case, which in combination is also a radiator. There is a fan inside the lamp housing. At the top of the lamp, there are LEDs on both sides of the printed circuit boards.

Five SCP-LEDs under the curtain should repeat the dimensions of the helix of the halogen lamp. These five LEDs are responsible for the dipped beam. Typically, in such lamps, 3 or 4 LEDs are installed under the curtain, in this case both the curtain and the LEDs themselves take up about the same amount of space as the halogen lamp spiral and its curtain take up. Here, both the spiral and the curtain are slightly larger than those of a halogen lamp. A little lower, a large LED is responsible for the high beam.

The store stated that in this lamp, the CREE-XHP-50 LED is used as the LED responsible for the high beam, the same marking is indicated on printed circuit board on which it is located. Whether this is true or not, I will not argue, but I will still give a link to the characteristics of the XHP-50 LEDs. Datasheet XHP-50
But according to the seller, he contacted the manufacturer and he was confirmed that the CREE LED was used. But low beam diodes are not krishnye.

The store claims the following:
Power Consumption: 40W
Luminous Flux: 8000LM
Working Voltage: DC 12-24V
Degree of protection: IP67
Color Temperature: 6500K
LED life time: 50000H

The dimensions of the lamp are slightly larger than the standard halogen. Its length is 101.2 mm. In this case, the lamp has a weight of 55.2 g.

Typically, such lamps have a very wide range of operating voltages, so I assumed that 24V is not the maximum allowable operating voltage, but the voltage of the on-board network. Therefore, further, when measuring power consumption depending on the voltage of the on-board network, I tested the lamp in the range from 6 to 30V. I summarized the results of measurements in a table.

From the table, you can see that the average power consumption for both low beam and high beam is almost the same and is approximately 24W.

For clarity, according to tabular data, I built graphs. The X-axis is the voltage in Volts, the Y-axis is the power consumption in Watts. The red line corresponds to the low beam, the blue line corresponds to the far beam.

The next thing I did was to measure the maximum temperature of the lamp's LEDs and plot the heating curves. During the operation of the LEDs responsible for the dipped beam, their maximum temperature was 125.1 ° C. The maximum temperature of the LEDs responsible for the high beam was 100.5 °C. This can be seen in the following thermograms. I don’t know why lamp manufacturers allow such a high operating temperature. But on the same lamps Russian production, the seller openly said that the temperature of the crystal during operation was 135 degrees (I don’t remember the exact value now, but it was about that).

During testing, the lamp was in a small cardboard box, in size, approximately the frame of the internal space in the headlight.

In the following graph, you can see the heating process of the lamp. The tests were carried out at a voltage of 14V. We see that the lamp reaches a steady temperature regime in about 8 minutes.

I will test the lamps on a motorcycle. And these are the first LED lamps I tested that I was able to install normally in my headlight. Usually, either the lock was not fastened, or the boot was not put on, but more often both of these shortcomings were present at the same time. Here, I did not find such problems. But to install these lamps, I still had to remove the front plastic headlight.

I will say right away that you should be careful with the anther. It is assumed that air intake will be carried out through the slots in the rear wall of the lamp, if they are closed with anther, then the cooling efficiency will decrease and the temperature of the LED crystals will increase. However, the situation can be partially saved by holes located around the perimeter of the lamp body.

Typically, in such lamps, the fan is installed in such a way that the air is blown out from the inside, but here it is the other way around. I thought, since the lamp is new, and only just appeared on sale, it might have been assembled with an error. To which the seller told me that there was no mistake and sent a photo:

In order to compare the brightness of an LED lamp with a standard halogen lamp, I will compare the illumination produced by these lamps.

In the following photo, please do not pay attention to the difference in the brightness of the lamps, the photos are taken with different camera settings. The photo settings were chosen to ensure good readability of the luxmeter parameters. But then on all other photographs, where I test the far and near light, I photographed everywhere with the same ISO, shutter speed and aperture values.

We see that the LED lamp is much brighter than the halogen lamp. Then, as usual, I was going to look at the light-shadow border and saw that it was finally there.

Just in case, to confirm that I do not embellish the picture when testing lamps, I will give links to the original photos.
1. First picture
2. Second picture

Therefore, I decided to go to the inspection station and test the lamp on specialized equipment.

My headlight is set up for a halogen lamp, if you just replace it with an LED, then the light-shadow border turns out to be slightly pulled up. As you can see in this photo (just in case, I attached a photo from two angles). According to an employee of the technical inspection station, a headlight with such a lamp can be adjusted.

In the following picture, I compared this LED lamp with a standard halogen lamp when working on high and low beams.

To complete the picture, a video with an example of the operation of two lamps, LED and halogen, can be seen in the video version of the review, just below. If you have read the review, then you can safely rewind the video to 3:50.

Despite the fact that the light-shadow border repeats the light-shadow border of a halogen lamp, I would recommend installing such lamps only in those headlights whose reflector is designed to install LED lamps in it.

Well, as usual, the video version of the review:

At the time of writing this text, the price of the lamps was about 2000 rubles per pair.
Link to lamps

That's all for me.
I hope the review was useful to you.

The comfort and safety of driving at night depends entirely on the illumination of the road. Everyone knows that in cars using incandescent headlights, road lighting is far from ideal. This applies in particular to combined high/low beam headlamps where a double-filament H4 bulb is used. You can get out of this situation by replacing the standard lamps with LED ones, which are not only bright and durable, but also consume much less energy.

A new development has appeared in the assortment of the DLED online store - LED lamps with an H4 base with a power of 22 watts. On the sides of this lamp, there are two of the brightest CREE LEDs. Depending on the use of the lamp in low beam or high beam mode, one or the other LED is used. Because of different distance between the LEDs and the lamp base, the border of light changes. The length of the LED chip corresponds to the length of the filament, which makes the distribution of light in the headlight similar to that of an incandescent lamp, without the need for additional adjustment.

The lamp body is made entirely of aluminum, and a cooler is included in the kit for the best cooling. However, this fact does not cause concern, since the LED lamp heats up many times less than incandescent lamps. Your car's headlight lenses will be less cloudy in summer and ice formation will be reduced in winter. The kit also comes with an electronic control unit responsible for the operation of the cooling cooler, voltage stabilizer and switching between low / high beam modes. The voltage stabilizer compensates for voltage surges in the on-board network, it also ensures the operation of the lamp both in cars and trucks, the voltage in the on-board network of which is 24 volts.

For ease of connection, the control unit is equipped with a standard plug for connecting to the car's standard wiring connector. You do not have to cut wires, install additional switches, and at any time you can easily put back standard lamps without any problems.

1. Remove the stock bulb from the car headlight

2. Replace the old lamp with a new LED

3. Locate and secure the control box in a convenient location

4. Install the cooling cooler on the lamp

5. Connect the lamp and cooler to the control box

6. Connect the control unit to the standard wiring connector

LED lamps are brighter than incandescent lamps and provide better illumination of the road. The beam of light from diode lamps hits further, illuminating a larger area, without blinding drivers of oncoming vehicles.

The color of the glow of the LEDs is whiter, such light does not tire the eyes and provides good perception. In addition, LED lamps last several times longer than incandescent lamps and are not sensitive to shock and vibration. The operation of LEDs requires much less energy, therefore, after installing these lamps, the load from the car's generator will decrease, and fuel consumption will become less.

• 16.01.2018

  The online store of auto lighting and automotive paraphernalia in Moscow is pleased to present to Moscow motorists an expansion of the range of LED lamps for head optics - the new DLED Sparkle-3 and Sparkle-2 series.

• 31.08.2016

  The sale of LED lamps for home lighting from the company Dled is announced - analogues of standard incandescent lamps for 100W E27 12W are now available at retail at a wholesale price of only 99 rubles per piece.

  

• 24.07.2016

  In order to constantly feel comfortable and secure your movement, you need to equip your car with high-quality LED lamps. It is for you that we offer DLed LED lamps of the Braid series with a flexible radiator. These autolamps are used in turns, regular running and brake lights. Such an autolamp is made of LEDs mounted on a small, elastic printed circuit board, which is wrapped in a circle with an aluminum layer. Heat from bright, powerful diodes enters the body of the autolamp and is distributed by a radiator located in the front cavity of the lamp.

  

• 24.06.2016

  Recently appeared in the automotive industry, EL Flexible neon "DLed" is a very economical, high-quality and inexpensive source of lighting, which allows you to create much new light installations using neon. The use of flexible neon has a large number of directions, but the most common is light auto tuning.

  

• 24.05.2016

  Much to our disappointment, not all car manufacturers complete their products with high-quality, high-performance lamps, because of this, drivers need to replace them with better ones in the future. After all, it is important for everyone to have good illumination of the path during poor visibility, as well as in bad weather. We would like to draw your attention to DLed EVolution gas-filled lamps manufactured by DLed.

  

Hello. In my review today, I will tell you about the AutoLeader LED headlight bulbs, type H4, for low beam and high beam. I invite those who are interested - under cat.

The package included this box:

At the bottom of the box are the main characteristics of the lamps:

And on the side wall - the types of existing lamps:

In the box, in addition to the lamps, there is an instruction for installing the lamps in the headlights:

Instruction

Lamps lie in a soft substrate:

Characteristics of lamps from the product page:

specification:
Condition: 100% Brand New
Brand Name: Autoleader
Light Type: H4/H7/H11/9006/9005
(Please specify the type before your purchasing, or the item will be shipped at random.)
model: 583600
Power Consumption: L/25W, H/25W
Working Voltage: DC9-32V
Luminous Flux: 4000LM, H/4000LM
Waterproof Rate: IP65
Light Source Model: CSP Chip
color temperature: 6500K
Heat Dissipation Theory: Aviation aluminum 6063
Service Life: >30000hrs
Working Temperature: -40~+80 degree
Car Model: Suitable for most Cars
Viewing angle: 360 degrees
Certificates: CE/RoHs

The overall dimensions of the lamp are fully consistent with the description:

The connector, standard for H4, is placed on the cord:

Passive lamp cooling radiator:

Each lamp has 6 low beam LEDs and 6 high beam LEDs:

Low beam LEDs have a reflector, as in halogen lamps:

This completely repeats the design of LED lamps:

Compare for yourself:

True, Philips has the driver placed on the cord, and not located inside the radiator, where it is exposed to excessive heat.

Why was this design chosen? The fact is that the headlight can work correctly only if the location and size of the LEDs completely repeats the location and size of the halogen lamp spirals:

But such a seemingly similar design will not work correctly:

Due to the fourth LED, the light output in the headlight will be incorrect, since the length of the line of four LEDs exceeds the length of a conventional spiral.

Let's remember how the headlight works with H4 bulbs.

Near light:

To prevent blinding oncoming drivers, the dipped-beam filament is placed slightly ahead and above the focal point, and shielded with a special cap inside the bulb, using only the upper half of the reflector.

Far light:

The high beam filament is located in focus and illuminates the entire surface of the reflector.

And because of such design features of headlights with H4 lamps, many indiscriminately blame all LED lamps that they blind without even trying to figure out the issue.

Here is the main culprit of this opinion:

Such a lamp will poorly illuminate the road and blind everyone, if you still don’t understand why - look again a little higher at the design of the headlight. No explanation is needed here.

The lamp in question uses small LEDs made using Chip-Scale Package (CSP) technology, as in Philips lamps. Specific brands of LEDs are not listed for any of the lamps.

The lamps indicate the operating voltage range from 9 to 32 volts:

Let's start disassembly.

Unscrew the two screws and remove the reflectors:

Plates with LEDs are removed downwards:

Thermal paste is present in excess.

Driver:

Connect the lamp and turn on the dipped beam:

The consumption of a cold lamp at 12 volts is 1.519A:

At 14 volts, on average, as in the car's on-board network - 1.260A:

Switching the lamp to high beam:

Consumption on a cold lamp at 12 volts is 1.456A:

At 14 volts - 1.288A:

At 24 volts - 0.745A:

With warming up - consumption begins to fall. At 14 volts - already 1.099A:

The maximum I managed to heat the lamp lying on the table to 100.2 degrees:

Moreover, it doesn't matter if the low or high beam is on. LEDs and their number are the same.

But in the headlight, the lamp will work in harsher conditions. It is difficult to imitate them, but I tried to at least get a little closer to them and put the included lamp in a closed empty box from under the same lamps:

Where the lamp worked for an hour. The temperature seems to have stopped rising as the current has stopped falling. At the same time, the lamp consumption was 0.701A at 14 volts:

The lamp at the same time heated up to 106 degrees:

Given the high temperature, it will be difficult to say what the real life of these lamps will be. And it's not about passive cooling. Active is no better, given the conditions under which the lamp is used, which is in a closed volume, the fan will not live there for a long time and will die before the lamp, and the cooling will become much worse than passive.

Well, let's start installing the lamps in the headlights:

The plate attached to the headlight has a bayonet mount and can be easily removed from the lamp:

We get to the headlight:

Removing the protective cover:

Unsnap the mounting bracket and take out the lamp:

Halogen lamp next to LED:

We insert the mounting plate from the LED lamp into the headlight and fasten it with a bracket:

And we insert the lamp itself into the plate, and turn it:

Connecting the power supply:

We lay the block on the side and close the headlight cover:

It remains to wait for darkness.

To begin with, I left a halogen lamp in one headlight, and an LED lamp in the second. As darkness fell, I measured the illumination at the brightest spots on the wall. The headlights are located at a distance of about 2.5 meters from the wall.

Halogen lamp.

Dipped beam - 308 Lux:

High beam - 669 Lux:

LED lamp:

Dipped beam - 540 lux:

High beam - 1505 lux:

It's time to move on to the beamshots. All beam shots were taken with a SLR camera located in manual mode with the same settings.

Near world. On the left is an LED lamp, on the right is a halogen lamp:

Far light. On the left is an LED lamp, on the right is a halogen lamp:

By car. Halogen on the left, LED on the right.

We install the second LED lamp.

Near light:

"Daws" sank lower than it was with a halogen lamp.

Far light:

By car:

Near light:

You can clearly see the light border on the left, the garages are not lit.

Far light:

Garages appeared.

I made a short video demonstrating the headlights, including during a short trip:

I originally intended to use these lamps for garage lighting. But for now, I'll leave them in the headlights. I'm interested to see if it will be visible in the wet at this color temperature. Although with halogens on a wet road, I had to additionally turn on foglights in order to see holes and potholes on off-road roads. My lighting is frankly weak ... But I’m unlikely to see how these headlights shine on a wet road before October. And it will never be too late to put them in the garage.

Thank you for your attention.

The product was provided for writing a review by the store. The review is published in accordance with clause 18 of the Site Rules.